For those who know, Kiev has a vibrant fashion scene that has been going on for years. Designers who started a decade ago face typical challenges to emerging fashion destinations, such as lack of infrastructure and institutional support. After the 2014 revolution, people would think that fashion is no longer on the agenda. Instead, it has become one of the tools to shape the country’s future. The creative scene in Kiev has inspired a global statement. Three years later, life in Kiev has returned to normal and designers are mulling a new sense of unity.
Ukraine’s identity has been an important part of the local fashion: after the revolution of blue and yellow often appeared on the fashion show, and to make the national shirt vyshivanka has become one of the most successful export style. Today it is clear that ownership and history are not the only concept of confrontation – Ukraine has a place in the global future. On the streets of Kiev, Ukrainian flags often fly alongside eu flags. This year, the schengen country visa-free travel, ukrainians want to see the west – although the world is debating the idea of Europe.
However, today’s Ukraine fashion scene has reached a certain maturity. Designers are in the fashion capital of the world: Anton Belinsky, Paskal and Litkovskaya are on display in Paris, while beversa has just made an appearance in New York. The stories they tell are different – from the glitz of the nineties to the utilitarian work clothes to the elegant escapism – yet they have turned Ukraine into a style destination.
The latest inspiration for Anton Belinskiy is the material culture surrounding Ukrainian political forces. This is the designer on the 57th Venice biennale with Ukraine pavilion is the main topic of cooperation, and continue in SS collection of 18, he in an exotic vacation deconstructs the image of a famous Ukrainian politician. Belinskiy turns the vision of corrupt luxury into a series of bold outfits that are very close to his Kiev roots. Ukrainian elite wore an old-fashioned fur hat cut off in a bikini. Tufted leather jackets mimic the texture of a sofa in the waiting room of the national ministry. Orange-colored marigold prints are the flower beds of the city. Bellinsky’s speech at Paris fashion week also collaborated with the street art project Eurotic, reflecting the possibility of Ukraine’s future as a European Union.
Svetlana Bevza has always been a deft minimalist, but this season her brand New York fashion week has appeared, and she has shown her vision in an unprecedented way. This collection, called “fragile,” explores the dichotomy of vulnerability and power in the world’s harsh environments. Coats are cut from transparent foam, and elastic bandages and exposed stomachs hint at subtle erotic vulnerability. Square shoulders, precise cuts and neat lines, plus jewelry made by Saskia Diez, make up a contemporary style for any global capital. The key costumes of this series play the challenge and neurosis of urban life – a bulletproof vest made of soft satin, an elegant, strong and political one.
In spring and summer 2018, Yulia Yefimtchuk continues to explore the Soviet design heritage. Her main reference literature was published since 1964 in the Soviet union science magazine “technical aesthetics” : practical and systematic, it’s in font, graphics and text has its own precision and recognizable style. The idea of Yefimtchuk is to emphasize the beauty of the uniform, its practicality, and the ambivalent freedom of its wearer. In red, black and khaki, uniforms sometimes have a more fluid and feminine side, and are mathematically perfect for folding.
The two sisters, Yulia and Anna Grazhdan, Drag and Drop, in the third season, subvert the feminine temperament and physical comfort. In their previous series, velvet, they use thick elastic lace and artificial snake skin, but this time the game is more subtle: cream-colored nude, soft elastic fabric and Ukraine tablecloth lace white denim. Drag-and-drop design is sexual and liberating, and always in a fair way of satire and self-love. This time, the sisters added a touch of mysticism to their constellations.