In January, my appetite seems to lean inward, away from any form of deprivation, to find comfort and buffer, to embrace a cold, dark world. The first few weeks of this year require soup, broth and pasta, steamed bread, beans and stews, and require some brightness, whether it’s cr or sore.
The best description of the brightness I know comes from Claudia Roden’s introduction to her book “food in the Middle East”. She wrote about a weekly meal in which she was a female student in Paris. She described how she and her Cousins would visit each Sunday. Each of them would ceremoniously prepare their traditional Egyptian dish, sprinkle the beans with olive oil and spices, squeeze the lemons, and then put a hot egg among them. The “delicious ecstasy” is described in this way. The soil quality of the beans is echoed by the acidity of the lemons, and the fat and soft eggs become soft and brown with warm yellow. She also described how the dishes of poor men in Egypt were invested, all the glory and warmth of Cairo, her hometown and all the personification of their homesickness.
Since the first time I read this article, it has been for more than twenty years, it is still I have any one of the most abundant food a book), but I remember, I think this is the first book for me to write an idea, and taste is feeling and memory of the repository. Cairo and roden these rich representative place away from me, hertfordshire and Lancashire bar childhood there are thousands of miles away – I’m more likely to use bacon sandwich and a pint or a slice of malt bread to raise the place. However, away from me, I can identify with her desire. Her idea is that something can change in another place or time.
I don’t remember whether I made a bacon sandwich or bought a solene bread. But I remember doing a Camden experiment: white olive oil, salt and pepper, a boiled egg and lemon juice. I had to run to the corner to buy lemons. Now, not that I don’t know a few drops (or a half moon) of gin and tonic, but ronaldo’s “sour hall” well summarized a few drops of fruit juice, cooking is a kind of fluorescent pen, strengthen other tastes – in this case, the beans and crumbling yellow egg yolks, in north London a unit outside the window to eat, every time the train through, ra ra.
January is certainly a good time to eat sour soup, because from now until march, lemons are the best and most abundant. Beside when I took my son off to school, I will think of it, that was in roma’s Aventine hill dozens of lemon tree, planted in the garden, green leaves, green branches, the sunshine filled with liquid branches and squeezed to everything on your plate – beans and eggs, salad, squid ring or a piece of fish or chicken and potatoes today.
In this recipe, there are also anchovies (which slide down into the oily base as a great condiment), garlic, rosemary and chili. And all of this is drowned out in wine, like a watchful, tamed personality into a rich and silky gravy.
Whether or not it is a delicious ecstasy, it must be a daily honor, a stable comfort and a strong smell.
Chicken with potatoes, anch fish, rosemary and lemon.
I usually start cooking this dish on the stove, in the oven, but you can do it on the stove. However, you choose to continue, cooking should result in a concentrated sauce pool chicken crest, golden syrup.
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 chicken – about 1.5kg – 8.
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed.
6 anch fish fillets.
A pinch of dried red pepper.
Warm and half lemon juice.
Salt and black pepper 1.
Kilograms of potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 cm wedge.
Dry white wine 250ml.
1 set the temperature of the oven to 180 c / 350 f/gas mark 4. In a large enough in the oven or casserole add a layer of chicken and potatoes, warm olive oil, then all around roast chicken, skin side down. Once brown, place the chicken on a warm plate.
2 in the remaining oil and chicken (if you feel too much, pour some), lightly fry the small garlic and anchovies with a small fire and gently squeeze them with a wooden spoon to break them down into fat. Add rosemary – keep the small branches overall mild, or cut up a stronger one. Add the peppers, lemon peel, salt and black pepper. Stir.
3 put the potatoes into the pot and stir until each one is bright.
Place the chicken in the pan (it may be a pumpkin, but all the ingredients will shrink in the cooking process). Pour the wine into the oven for 10 minutes, then place it in the oven for 40 to 50 minutes. Bake it every 15 minutes or so and squeeze out some lemon juice in the last 10 minutes. Finally, the bottom of the chicken and potato should be soft, surrounded by a lot of greasy gravy, and the top is golden.