Elizabeth David, one of the great sages of food writing, is a fan of Sageless: “It reduces the musty, dry-blood smell of food,” and she writes about summer cooking (Penguin, ￡ 9.99). The Sage is a strong herb and true, so it can arouse a similarly strong reaction, but I’m pretty sure David is talking about doing saints, which is really very powerful and moldy. Fresh sage leaves, on the other hand, all feel like hairy, smooth, with a brilliant, scent, and tend to be active in whatever they pair. They retain this power and slightly musty notes, but do it in a harmonious manner, instead of overriding a dish.
Then Sage works best and can stick to its strong taste, which is why anchovies, liver or lemon are the classic pairing. For a fast, simple and very satisfying meal, I often add a few leaves to a small piece of melted butter or hot olive oil, and then topped the pasta stuffed with pasta. It always feels like a very wise dinner decision.
Celery and ricotta with sage butter
gnudi can be stored one day in advance in the fridge. However, the sauce should be made before consumption, so it remains fresh. This involves a considerable amount of effort, but it is worth the complex result. Do 12 gnudi, as the first one or two as the main service four.
? celery, peeled, cut into 2 cm cubes (net weight 280 g)
Finely ground hot lemon 1 (ie 1 teaspoon)
? cloves, peeled and crushed 80 grams
30 grams Pecorino finely ground
1? tablespoons chopped basil leaves
80 grams of salt
1 big egg, beaten
3 tablespoons olive oil plus
25 grams unsalted butter
10 sage leaf
150 grams of cherry tomatoes, gently crushed by hand
20 grams Pecorino, pared off
1? tablespoons basil leaves, probably torn
1/2 teaspoon of celery seeds
Place the celery in a large pot, cover with salt water and simmer for 20-25 minutes until soft. Drain, transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper, and put another piece of kitchen paper on another piece of paper. Lightly press celery with your hands to draw as much liquid as possible; repeat with fresh paper, if needed. You should end up with 200 grams of cooked celery. Put the parsley M in a bowl – try to get rid of most of the pieces, although some pieces will not cause problems – then refrigerate for 15 minutes until cooled.
Add lemon peel, garlic, cheese, basil and pinch of salt to the cooled celery and mix well. Check the seasoning – you may need a little more salt, depending on the salty taste of pecorino – then refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Now organize your workstation. Place the couscous in a large plate and place the eggs in a bowl next to it. Draw a paper tray with greaseproof paper. Divide the celery mixture into 12 pieces, then mix each piece into a slightly smaller ball than the golf ball and squeeze the mixture with your hand during rolling. Apply every egg in the egg to it and allow any excess to drip back into the bowl (use a fork if you like to keep your hands clean), then roll in the semolina until it is coated and press the semolina Gnudi ball when you roll your palm. Put the prepared gnudi on the plate and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Put the oil, butter, sage and one-eighth of a spoonful of salt in a large, non-stick frying pan and place in a moderately elevated temperature. Gently heat in the mixture for 3 to 4 minutes until the butter is foamed, sage starts to color, then stir in cherry tomatoes and exotherm.
Add water with a large saucepan, add a tablespoon of salt and boil quickly. Turn the heat down to medium water, so the water slowly brews, then drops half gnudi. Wait for them to rise to the surface – it should take a minute or two – for three minutes if they cheer up. Dig them out with a slotted spoon, transfer to the plate, and repeat the rest of gnudi.
Once all the gnudi is cooked, add them to the sauce and put the pot back on medium heat. Gently rotate for three minutes and dip the sauce on gnudi whenever and wherever, until everything is hot. Divide between the four plates and make sure each section gets some sage leaves and serves with Pecorino, basil, celery seeds and the last drizzle.
Grilled sesame, Jerusalem artichokes and apples with hazelnuts
The sweetness of Brahmin ginseng roots is matched with the artichokes and saints, but hard to find (your local greengrocer may find something for you). A good choice is the same amount of celery, peeled and chopped into batons of roughly the same length as artichokes. Eat alone or with grilled chicken or pork. Serving as a side dish six.
550 g peeled, peeled, washed, cut into 7 cm long (net weight 400
G) 500 grams Jerusalem artichoke, peeled and cut into 5 cm long (net weight 450 g)
3 tablespoons olive oil 5
Sage leaves, chopped
Salt and black pepper
20 grams of white sugar
2 red apples (Royal event or Pink Lady said), core and cut into 1 cm wide wedges
60 ml dry white wine
1 tablespoon lemon juice
50 g blanched hazelnuts, roasted about
10 grams coriander leaves chopped, chopped 5
Heat the Oven to 220C / 425F / Gas Mark 7. Mix 2 tablespoons oil, sage, half teaspoon salt and pepper to make onion and artichokes. Spread on a baking tray, spread the oil-proof paper and bake for 25-30 minutes until soft, golden brown (some artichoke slices may take about five minutes left in this case) and then calm.
Put the sugar and two teaspoons of water in a hot pot and heat in a medium heat for 2-3 minutes until the sugar melts and turns golden yellow. Add apple pans and cook for four minutes, turn over halfway until caramelized. Stir in the wine, cook until the liquid is reduced to about two tablespoons, then the pot heat.
Put the vegetables in a large bowl and stir with apples and syrup. Add one teaspoonful of oil, lemon juice, hazelnuts, herbs, salt, 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper, mix gently and scoop on a plate with a spoon.
Swedes, bacon and walnuts
This can be used as a side dish, but also as a main course, accompanied by refreshing vegetable salad. It also does not have bacon if you want to make it vegetarian (you just need to add a small amount of salt). The main six, eight mainly.
25 grams unsalted butter
1 green onions, go
Thin slices (200 g net weight) 200 grams of smoked bacon
10 grams of sage leaf,
300ml double cream
400 ml vegetable soup
1? tablespoons dijon mustard
2 barley, peeled, cut in half, 4 mm thick slices (1.4 kg)
Salt and fresh black pepper
40 grams of ripe cheddar, coarsely ground
40 grams of walnut half, chopped
Heat the oven to 200C / 390F / V 6. Mark the butter into a large 28cm diameter pan and heat to medium temperature. Once frothy, add onions and bacon, and mix often, stirring for 7-8 minutes until onion is soft and bacon cooked. Stir half a saint, butter, soup, mustard, sweden, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, boil, then heat to moderate temperature, let stand for five minutes, stirring occasionally.
Place the Swedes in a 20 cm x 30 cm high temperature plate and pour all the pans and bacon on top. Press down on the menu, and if you need to move the slices, they are evenly layered, baked for 40 minutes, baked again, and pressed down halfway again.
When baking, mix the cheddar with the walnut and the rest of the sage. Within 40 minutes, the cheddar cheese mixture is sprinkled over the roasted cheese and baked for a further 15-20 minutes until it is browned with a dark brown finish and bubbles for 10 minutes.