Feeling and sexy: Dior hugs female artists, while Saint Laurent glitters


His career in both Dior and Yves Saint Laurent was closely intwined in the 1950s but lived in their name at megabrands – both of which show their Spring / Summer Tuesday 2018 episodes in Paris – have evolved quite differently Way method.

At Dior, the tone is a groundbreaking 1971 feminist essay by Linda Nochlin Why there is no copy of a great female artist? Stay in every seat. This essay on art history and patriarchy became a key part of the exhibition and its title was used as the slogan for the first Brittany T-shirt worn by the model.
The exploration of women’s power has a special resonance with Dior’s creations. Dior’s founders used “New Look” to reshape femininity in the post-war era, and recently appointed the first woman in 70 years history Director Maria Grazia Chiuri.

This exhibition has a second highbrow reference to the artist Niki de Saint-Phalle. His aesthetics is also characterized by her vivid colorful sculptures and mirror mosaics Pattern echoed throughout the series. “She’s a rebel,” Chiuri said. “She is a very revolutionary woman and she is really inspiring.”
Saint-Phalle’s own dress sense – her trademark little blue beret appears on the fashion show, as can be seen on Wednesday’s Adams-style clothing, such as stripes in black corsets Shirt, wearing a black leotard dress, Saint Farrer may wear more time on her body. There are a lot of feels a bit Beetlejuice, which includes a coat of arms and bags of checkerboard patterns and black and white striped knee high socks and trimmed with the Christian Dior brand hot pants, you can see that has become the Chiari Dior calling card of Grazia.

This is not the first time that Chiuri has created a feminist T-shirt: her first appearance is quoted by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie: “We should all be feminists.” Chiuri’s silhouette is often straightforward – the top of a corset is lined with the waist of a layered tulle skirt – not the awkward high-profile design that wins key applause in other houses.

She has received some key conveniences, but she has always insisted on her own trademark standards. Like those quoted, her brand info is direct, optimistic and packed with fans of global consumers, such as those posted by Linda Nochlin on the eager Dior berets and posting on Instagram.

In the background, Chiuri’s account of the relationship between women’s lives and clothes is convincing: “Sometimes we think fashion has changed women, but what really happens is the opposite. Women are changing too, so fashion must change too.”

Late on Tuesday, the introduction of the spring and summer collection of Saint Laurent 2018 is more an incredible fashion science fiction movie than a fashion show. It is carried out outside an epic runway built in the historic Waldorfhof in Paris. The Eiffel Tower lit and shone in the background, with dry ice floating in the air.

However, it is these guests who really bring exoticism to the suit, however, brand names such as Lenny Kravitz and Lou Doillon wear full outfits including a sleek black tuxedo, shining silver lapels, high heels Silver disco boots, and a mini-dress with crystal shoulders to extend the air to the wearer’s dresser’s power dresser.

Anthony Vaccarello, creative director for three seasons at Yves Saint Laurent, is more emotional than Dior’s in describing his collection, describing Yves Saint Laurent as “a black angel with a black Angel, glittering asleep after the rain. ”
In a real record, this means days of legs (Kering and LVMH’s agreement to stop using the zero-size model – and minor models – do not appear to result in a large amount of diversity in catwalks and advertising campaigns) and pirate skirts Silhouetted blouson blouse with brilliant off – If it’s hard to imagine wearing a store – Huge, 80s-influenced bubble dress parade.

Each seat has quotes, saluting Pierre Berge, a former lover and lifelong business partner of Saint Laurent. He attended the YSL fashion show in February but died at the age of 86 last September.