Naommons on us: Naomi Campbell returns to the top of fashion


He was a good one for Naomi Campbell in 1990. That month in the spot demolished a model that covers British Vogue, Cindy, Christie and Linda. After that, the cover of “fashion” in France and Italy, and the “Dalmatian” convertible in the classic “Vogue” of Grace “Cogdingson” (still appearing on the mood board) by Grace Cedrton Peter Lindbergh poses as free ’90 video Lip-syncing by Gianni Versace Milan and George Michael. Not bad

Now, 2017 is an equally good year for Campbell, 47, a contempt modeling career. This is the era of “classics.”

Campbell’s popularity in the fashion industry is higher than she has been since the fashion industry twenty years ago. As a newly published contributing editor to Britain’s fashion magazine, Campbell’s editors at the Burberry show front in London’s Fashion Week, editor Edward Enninful and Kate Moss, who is also Vogue’s headline, At Paris Fashion Week, Campbell was taken aback at Leeds along with his supermodel and former French First Lady Carla Bruni for lunch. And on Friday night at Milan Fashion Week, she almost broke the Internet with her gauze Versace dress and became one of the top five supermodel lineups, joining Donatello and paying tribute to her brother.
For the Naomi brand, this is a pretty good turnaround, and not long ago the brand spent the best of a decade in the shadow of four conviction offensives. Next was the vulgar affair of blood diamonds, a casual story of a dirty stone being delivered late at night, and eventually appearing in the trial of Charles Taylor’s war crimes. None of these got Campbell’s ears helping with these events. In New York, wearing Dolce & Gabbana’s silver dress for community service (“What they want me to do – watch all boring and monotonous trips?”) Initially rejected her summons in The Hague, claiming it was “a big inconvenience “.

A no-nonsense statement like this can help eliminate Campbell’s long-standing concern with the fashion industry. This model may be deaf to a spoiled child, but many industry veterans lack sensitivity.

Karl Lagerfeld calls the young Naomi Campbell a “humble example” of Black Brigitte Bardot, who has been calling racism, prejudice and double standards for two decades. As early as 1997, Campbell told interviewers: “There is a bias and this is a problem and I can no longer brush my teeth under the carpet.” That same year, she opposed the “parochiality” of kiosk culture, in which ” The business to sell, blond, blue-eyed girl is what to sell. ” Ten years later, she criticized mainstream model agencies for ignoring or not advocating non-white models. In 2013, she co-founded “Diversified Alliance” with Bethann Hardison and Iman, who called for designers who “stick with one or more colors” at the show. An open letter said: “No matter what their intentions are The result is racism. “

In 2017, Campbell put forward two decades of diversified views has become fashionable. Edward Enninful, the first issue of “Vogue” appeared as an editor for two weeks and has had a significant impact on news ads, arranging for filmmaker Steve McQueen and makeup artist Pat McGrath. Campbell, who never pulled a punch, posted a farewell issue in an instant editorial by Alexandra Schulman, highlighting the all-white squad. In the fashion industry, progress is being made. Actor directors and designers have finally realized that excluding color is bad because it is not suitable for their season. (Yes, that’s exactly the same thing.) Research by highlights the increase in the percentage of non-white models used in fashion advertising campaigns, rising from 15.3% in fall 2015 to 30.4% in 2017, almost doubling Something.

But this is fashion, you have to be cool and smart. Fortunately, Campbell’s cultural capital is riding on the revivalist trend of the 1990s, which has risen from fashionable to high-street this year. Fortunately, she also entered her 40s when the industry had relaxed the rules that had largely abandoned women at the age of 35. And, fortunately, this is a retro revival if 21st century popular culture prefers more things than a popular young person. We have McConnaissance. We’ve seen Nicole Kidman’s second coming. Now, thirty years after she was just on the list, Campbell was closer to Vogue than ever before.