Menswear designer Martine Rose: “fashion used to be outsider”


Men’s designer has become an international name, has 10 years of successful experience. She desperately explores the idea of ??men’s clothing: distorting uniforms created by traditional workwear and subculture tribes into attractive clothes. Finally, she started to receive the attention it deserved in the past year or so.

Now men’s fashion is more and more stylish, her extraordinary wide-leg pants, oversized coat, logo tie pins and recycled daddy jacket seem desirable but not extreme. Rose now stocked in New York Barneys and Matches fashion. Damien Paul, head of Matches Fashion’s men’s wear, said: “I’ve been a big fan of Martine Rose.” We launched her brand in January and her urban mix-and-match shirt and sweat was created with our customers Unbelievable resonance. Martine hit the best spot before the curve and set a fun men’s aesthetics. This is a rare talent. ”

Rose is also the most influential fashion designer now. Demna Gvasalia gained a reputation as a member of the Vetements Group, but his work as a creative director at the French brand Balenciaga reinforces his reputation. Rose is now a consultant for the Men’s Collection.
Anyone concerned about Rose’s brilliant career will think that all these changes – a bigger place, a bigger business plan – will change what she’s doing. She has been pushing the system since her first book ten years ago. One series is inspired by second hand clothes and the other series includes only one piece of clothing. In general, her work often appears on masculine hallmarks – uniforms, football and club culture – and she shows her designs, such as fixtures and short films, on an indoor climbing wall. Once she really angered all the fashion editors, show a collection of three models and slowly rotate the turntable. Before she left her studio in Tottenham, she even staged a show at the nearby Seven Sisters Indoor Market. Booth owners wander through the walkways as models of their business.
Catwalk away from the West is far away. In an industry that likes timelines and traditional ways of doing things, Rose has always felt that anti-establishment. But she is happy to admit that a lot of this is unsafe.

She said: “I wish I could say I knew it all worked, or I was very concerned, but I think it is mainly fear.” “I’ve put too much in this area, so what am I still going to do? I applied for a job, and I was not confident enough about my vision and skills. ”

Creative Director Gordon Richardson was an important force in setting up the London Collections Men and spent 16 years at Topman. He thinks that Ross’s work is far-sighted. “Martin has this innate ability to understand the nature of youthful style, and she never dared to push the boundaries of shape and proportions, and Martin’s design would be for everyone to wear in the near future.”

Her collection is very personal, and her family encourages her to enter the world of fashion. “I remember watching my siblings and cousins ??getting ready to go clubbing, the beginning of my club, when I was young, I started to go out and even what clothes I like to watch.”
As a result, she grew up in southern London as part of a larger Jamaica family, with her sister Michelle’s Pug Hogg and Jean-Paul Gautier wearing clothes. “I have only one sibling, but I have dozens of cousins, many of whom live in my house, so this is the central hub, and we always end there.”

Her parents knew she would not have a traditional job even when she was young. “They themselves are not very traditional, I mean, mom is a nurse and dad is an accountant, but since the age of 13, they are in a mixed racial relationship, so it is not traditional for them to choose how to live.”

A year after Camberwell College of Art, she studied fashion at Middlesex University. “I did the women’s clothing, but the women’s clothes were men’s, so they were always men’s.” Upon graduation in 2002, she started a T-shirt called LMNOP with Tamara Rothstein, the spouse of the rose stylist Camberwell. But in 2007, Martine Rose’s label was born. She said the new talent, showcasing fashion East, has been funded from the start-up initiative and has been fighting since. After she had her two-year-old daughter, she took a break for a season. Her second child was only seven weeks old and, as we spoke, he was walking around the arms of Rose’s studio manager, looking lovely and solemn. Rose apparently encountered her partner, and when he called her from the scaffolding, she struggled to roll the material out of the studio to her car. Then he jumped off the scaffolding to help her out. They have been together since then.

Although Martine Rose is her delight, working for Balenciaga is a bit of a game changer. This is a very high-profile job in the international fashion industry. She said: “It all happened with photographer Ollie Pearch.” We worked together and he mentioned that Demna wanted to see me. We send each other an email of appreciation to each other, and when he gets to Valencia, he asks me to go to Paris. I do not even know the Balenciah men’s wear. But doing so is a tremendous experience. I am like this: ‘Oh, this is how it is done. ‘”
Rose can be fascinating about her profession. She is pleased to have some talent men, a bit experimental, but how to become contradictory to the mainstream. “It used to be a stranger, a weird industry, a neglected one, something special. Now it’s a multi-billion-dollar industry that I have never been mainstream, so one of them is Very strange. ”
This does not mean that she does not like her as a new role in the fashion next name. She is even enjoying more business knowledge of the industry. “Well, until recently, it felt like a very expensive hobby,” she said with a laugh. “There is no business element so I do not have to be involved. Maybe it’s defensive and I push it away. Now it’s interesting to see who sells something and who sells something. Business is creative – though my dad has one day Call me entrepreneur, but I’m ready to die, dad! He said it was cute, but I’m not Richard Branson. ”

She may not be like Branson, Rose has a cute hand-painted logo for her brand. Is her signature? “No, it was found in a vintage work, and I found the work signed by someone.Maybe I should tell people that this is my cute script.I wrote poorly.”

In spite of this, her name will become more and more famous. My favorite name for use of roses is the tie pin during this season, turning the feature accessories into a conversation point. She nodded when I told her this. “That’s my job, is not it? Get things a bit more vigorous.” She laughed and sat in her bright new room with a bright future in front of her.