Sunday in Milan Fashion Week is a set of two very different stories. The first was Marni, named after the brains favorite of the art crowd, with the debut of the new designer Francesco Risso’s dresses.
Then, Dolce & Gabbana more and more like catwalk specials, around the leopard and lace charm charm. This time, by casting influencers – Instagram’s stars, celebrity kids, and even magazine editors – as models. The contrast between the two shows can not be more intense.
Following the departure of Maruel founder and creative director Consuelo Castiglioni in October last year, former Prada designer Francesco Risso took over as creative director. This Sunday morning is his first women’s show in Milan.
The show pays homage to the legacy of Castiglioni, skilfully pointing out that this is Risso’s Marni 2.0, the first man designed. The first one, like a skirt, a cocoon-like skirt, like a typical heel and long soles of the “ugly” sandals, and earrings. There’s also a Risso element – a damask dress with a bra and sun glasses and waist boots, a creative collage with club kids’ feel.
It is also in oversized hats, big bird worthy colored pastel coat and vinyl jacket. Seventies prints, gaunt, sweet-colored suits and trousers, revealing the designer’s previous employer’s influence. It feels like a collection of seeds intended to plant something, rather than destroying something before and after it.
In the background, Risso – a thin, curly hair wearing an old-fashioned western shirt shows his millennial identity. He said his new character is “super excited,” and basically explains that the collection is said to contain a different identity. He explains: “This one replaces” me, “in which singularities and plurals are just as important.
He also paid tribute to Castiglioni. “It’s very important to me that Consuelo and her work are important to me,” he said, “her stereotyped view of releasing a woman or a man is so astonishing. This is my real concern, I want to fight for it. ”
Consuelo Castiglioni founded Marni with her husband Gianni in 1994. Some people think that the departure of Castiglionis could have been attributed to the difficult relationship with Only The Brave. Renzo Rosso’s company also owns Rosso’s Diesel and Maison Margiela, which acquired 60% of Marni in 2012. Marni’s revenue increased 15.4% in 2015 to 127 million pounds. The company has 60 stores around the world.
Dolce & Gabbana started their performance as a stadium concert, with the screens around them flashing the names of people coming onto the T-console. Models include Oliver Cheshire and Pixie Lott, Alice and Charlotte Dellal, and Jo Ellison, the fashion editor of the Financial Times, hailed as the next Vogue editor. She went to the British media, including Alexandra Schulman sitting in the front row, laughed.
In a show that sells clothes more than entertainment, dogs, babies and children are also included. Austin Mahone, a 20-year-old singer with 10 million followers, recorded everything in live performances. For the front row, this is irresistible. Even Anna Wintour, usually crossed arms, smiled, obviously enjoying the wonders.
Finally, the waiters in the clothing store fancy champagne plates, and most of the audience left the venue and they are doing their best. In Dolce & Gabbaba’s world, unlike Marni, there is no such thing as OTT.
This is Dolce & Gabbana’s first women’s collection since Melania Trump put on a dress in January. Stefano Gabbana’s praise of the new first lady on social media has sparked a strong protest from fans who think they will boycott the brand.